Table Saw Blades & Accessories
Table Saw Splitter Guide: How Splitters Stop Kickback (and How to Add One)
How a table saw splitter prevents kickback, how it differs from a riving knife, and how to add, align and use one on an older saw.
The short answer: a table saw splitter is a thin fin that sits behind the blade and keeps the cut from closing up and pinching the blade, which is the main cause of kickback. If your saw has a riving knife, use it. If it is an older saw without one, an insert-mounted splitter is one of the best safety upgrades you can make.
This guide explains how splitters work, how they differ from riving knives, how to fit one to an older saw, and how to use it so it protects you on every rip cut.
- ✅ Splitter vs riving knife vs anti-kickback pawls, explained
- ✅ How to add a splitter to an older saw (including older Craftsman models)
- ✅ Step-by-step installation and alignment
Kickback is the moment every table saw user fears. A board suddenly shoots back toward you at high speed, sometimes pulling your hand toward the blade as it goes. It happens in a fraction of a second, and it is one of the most common causes of table saw injuries.
The good news is that most kickback has a simple mechanical cause, and a simple mechanical fix. When wood closes up behind the blade, or drifts away from the fence, the back of the blade grabs it and throws it. A splitter stops that from happening by keeping the cut open and the board on track. In this guide, you will learn exactly how splitters work, which type suits your saw, how to install and align one, and the habits that make it truly effective.
In this article
- What Is a Table Saw Splitter?
- How Kickback Happens (and How a Splitter Stops It)
- Splitter vs Riving Knife vs Anti-Kickback Pawls
- Types of Table Saw Splitter
- Adding a Splitter to an Older Saw
- Riving Knives and Older Craftsman Table Saws
- How to Install an Insert-Mounted Splitter
- Matching the Splitter to Your Blade
- When to Remove It (and When Not To)
- Splitters and Safety Tools Worth Buying
- Common Mistakes (and How to Fix Them)
- Pro Tips
- Real-Life Examples
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Your Table Saw Splitter Checklist
What Is a Table Saw Splitter?
A splitter is a thin, flat piece of metal or reinforced plastic that stands up behind the blade, in line with it. As you push a board through, the freshly cut kerf (the slot made by the blade) slides over the splitter. The splitter keeps that slot open, so the two halves of the board cannot squeeze together and pinch the back of the blade.
It also acts as a guide. Because the splitter sits in the kerf, the board cannot easily swing away from the fence and into the rising teeth at the back of the blade.
Splitters come in a few forms. Older saws often had a splitter attached to the blade guard. Many woodworkers add small splitters that mount in a zero-clearance insert. And modern saws use a riving knife, which is a more advanced version of the same idea.
Kerf: the slot the blade cuts. Kickback: when the blade grabs a board and throws it back toward you. Zero-clearance insert: a throat plate with a slot cut exactly to your blade, so there is almost no gap around it.
How Kickback Happens (and How a Splitter Stops It)
To see why splitters work, picture the blade from the side. The front teeth move downward, pushing wood toward the table, which is safe. The teeth at the back of the blade move upward and toward you. If wood touches those rear teeth with any pressure, they lift it and throw it back toward you.
Two things commonly push wood into those rear teeth:
- The kerf closing: wood often has internal stresses. As you cut, the two halves can spring together and squeeze the back of the blade.
- The board drifting: if the board swings away from the fence, its back edge can touch the rear teeth.
A splitter blocks both. It holds the kerf open, and it keeps the board from swinging sideways at the back of the blade. That is why safety experts and saw manufacturers treat a splitter or riving knife as essential for rip cuts. Our table saw kickback guide covers every cause in more detail.
💡 Key insight: most kickback starts at the back of the blade. A splitter protects exactly that zone, which is why it is one of the most effective safety devices you can use.
Splitter vs Riving Knife vs Anti-Kickback Pawls
These three devices are often confused. They work together, but each does a different job.
| Device | Where it sits | Moves with blade height? | Main job | Use for non-through cuts? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Riving knife | Close behind the blade, curved to match it | Yes | Keeps kerf open, stays close at every height | Often yes (sits below blade top), but not with dado stacks |
| Guard-mounted splitter | Behind the blade, fixed height | No | Keeps kerf open, holds the guard | No, must be removed |
| Insert-mounted splitter | In the zero-clearance insert, behind the blade | No | Keeps kerf open on older saws | No, remove the insert |
| Anti-kickback pawls | Arms with teeth, behind the blade | N/A | Dig into wood if it moves backward | No |
If your saw has a riving knife, it is generally the best of these, because it stays close to the blade at every height and does not need to be removed for many cuts. Splitters remain a great solution for older saws that never had a riving knife.
Types of Table Saw Splitter
Guard-mounted splitters
Many older saws came with a splitter attached to the blade guard assembly. They work, but many owners took them off because they were awkward to remove and refit. A splitter that lives in a drawer protects no one.
Insert-mounted splitters
These are small splitters that fit into a zero-clearance insert just behind the blade. Products like the MICROJIG MJ Splitter use a drill guide to position them precisely. They are easy to use because they come out when you swap the insert, and they sit very close to the back of the blade.
Shop-made splitters
Some woodworkers glue a thin strip of hardwood or plastic into the kerf of a zero-clearance insert. It can work, but it must be perfectly in line with the blade and slightly thinner than the kerf. Commercial splitters make that alignment easier and more reliable.
The best safety device is the one you actually use. Choose a splitter or riving knife system that is quick to install and remove, so you never skip it “just for one cut.”
Adding a Splitter to an Older Saw
If your saw was made before riving knives became common, it may have no kerf-protection device at all, or a guard-mounted splitter that has long been lost. Adding an insert-mounted splitter is a simple, affordable upgrade.
Here is what you need:
- A zero-clearance insert that fits your saw. See our guide to zero-clearance table saw inserts.
- A splitter kit matched to your blade’s kerf (full or thin).
- A drill and the kit’s drill guide and bit.
Once installed, the splitter lives in the insert. Keep a second, splitter-free insert for non-through cuts such as grooves, and swap between them as needed.
Riving Knives and Older Craftsman Table Saws
Many older Craftsman contractor and benchtop saws were built before riving knives were standard. Owners often ask whether they can add one. The honest answer is: it depends on the exact model.
- Check your model number. It is usually on a label on the saw. Riving knife compatibility depends on the arbor and trunnion design, which varies by model.
- Aftermarket riving knife kits exist for some older saws. Only use one that the maker states fits your exact model, and follow the alignment instructions carefully.
- An insert-mounted splitter is often the simplest option. If a zero-clearance insert is available for your saw, a splitter kit can be added to it.
- Do not improvise a riving knife from scrap metal. A knife that is not aligned, too thick or poorly mounted can cause the binding it is meant to prevent.
If your saw also needs a better fence or other upgrades, it may be worth weighing a modern saw. Our table saw buying guide helps you decide whether to upgrade or replace.
Older saws often lack modern guards too. Until you add kerf protection, avoid freehand cuts, always use the fence for rips, and use push sticks on every narrow cut.
How to Install an Insert-Mounted Splitter
Exact steps vary by product, so follow the kit’s instructions. This is the general process for a typical insert-mounted splitter. Always unplug the saw first.
- Unplug the saw and lower the blade fully.
- Fit a zero-clearance insert and slowly raise the blade through it to create the kerf, following the insert maker’s instructions.
- Position the drill guide in the kerf behind the blade, as the kit describes, so the holes line up with the blade’s path.
- Drill the mounting holes with the supplied bit and guide.
- Press the splitter into place so it sits in line with the blade.
- Check alignment with a straightedge against the blade and splitter. The splitter must not stick out past either side of the kerf.
- Test on scrap before cutting your real work. The wood should slide smoothly over the splitter without binding.
A splitter that is out of line pushes the wood sideways, which can cause the very binding it is meant to stop. Take your time to get it exactly in line with the blade.
Matching the Splitter to Your Blade
A splitter must be slightly thinner than the kerf your blade cuts, so the wood can slide over it freely while still being held open. Using the wrong size causes problems.
| Blade kerf | Typical width | Splitter to use | What goes wrong if mismatched |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full kerf | About ⅛” (0.125″) | Full-kerf splitter | A thin-kerf splitter leaves too much room to steer the board |
| Thin kerf | About 3/32″ (0.090–0.100″) | Thin-kerf splitter | A full-kerf splitter is too thick and causes binding |
If you switch between full-kerf and thin-kerf blades, keep a separate insert and splitter for each. Kits like the MJ Splitter include several splitters with small offsets so you can fine-tune the fit to your blade.
When to Remove It (and When Not To)
A splitter only works on through-cuts, where the blade cuts all the way through the board. For non-through cuts, the blade does not pass through the top of the wood, so a fixed splitter would block the cut.
| Cut | Through cut? | Splitter / riving knife |
|---|---|---|
| Ripping a board to width | Yes | Splitter or riving knife ON |
| Crosscut with a sled or miter gauge | Yes | Riving knife ON (splitter usually fine if it fits) |
| Groove or rabbet (single blade) | No | Splitter OFF; riving knife often can stay on if below blade top |
| Dado stack | No | Remove splitter and riving knife |
After any non-through cut, put the splitter or riving knife straight back on before your next rip. Most kickback injuries happen in the minutes after someone removes a device “just for one cut” and forgets to refit it.
Splitters and Safety Tools Worth Buying
MICROJIG’s MJ Splitter system is a widely used choice for adding a splitter to a zero-clearance insert. Specifications come from the manufacturer listings on Amazon. Choose the version that matches your blade’s kerf.
MICROJIG MJ SPLITTER Steel Pro, Full Kerf (SP-2)
The MJ Splitter Steel Pro installs in your zero-clearance insert and keeps the kerf open and the board aligned to the fence. It is a popular safety upgrade for saws without a riving knife. The kit includes four steel-core splitters with tiny offsets so you can match your blade precisely, plus Kerf Keepers that pop out if the stock closes on the blade.
- 4 steel-core ⅛” splitters with 0.000″, 0.003″, 0.006″ and 0.009″ offsets
- Kerf Keepers eject automatically if the stock closes on the blade
- Drill guide, 3/16″ bit and screws included
- Made in the USA
Best for: older saws with full-kerf (⅛”) blades and a zero-clearance insert.
- Kerf
- Full (⅛”)
- Splitters
- 4, with offsets
- Kerf range
- 0.118″–0.145″
- Core
- Steel
- Model
- SP-2
- Warranty
- 3-year (authorized dealers)
Requires a zero-clearance insert. Check Amazon for today’s price.
MICROJIG MJ SPLITTER Steel Pro for Thin Kerf Blades (SP-2TK)
If you use thin-kerf blades, a full-kerf splitter will be too thick and cause binding. This thin-kerf version is matched to narrower blades. It installs the same way, using a drill guide that registers off the kerf, and its polycarbonate shell is reinforced with a stainless steel core.
- 4 thin-kerf splitters with built-in offsets
- Kerf Keepers, drill guide, bit and screws included
- Stainless steel core for stability under pressure
- Installs in a shop-made or aftermarket zero-clearance insert
Best for: saws running thin-kerf 10″ blades, common on jobsite and lower-powered saws.
- Kerf
- Thin kerf
- Splitters
- 4, with offsets
- Shell
- Polycarbonate
- Core
- Stainless steel
- Model
- SP-2TK
- Warranty
- 3-year (authorized dealers)
Match the splitter to your blade’s kerf. Check Amazon for today’s price.
MICROJIG GRR-RIPPER GR-100 3D Table Saw Push Block
A splitter protects the back of the blade. A good push block protects your hands at the front. The GRR-RIPPER grips the board from above and pushes it forward, down and toward the fence at once, which keeps the work stable through the whole cut, even on narrow rips.
- Three-directional force for full control
- High-friction grip holds the work firmly
- Adjustable for rips down to ¼”
- Works on table saws, router tables, jointers and band saws
Best for: anyone serious about table saw safety, especially on narrow cuts.
- Type
- 3D push block
- Min rip
- ¼ inch
- Adjustable
- Yes
- Listed weight
- 16 oz
- Model
- GR-100
- Warranty
- 3-year (authorized dealers)
Check Amazon for today’s price and bundle options.
For more hand-protection options, see our guide to the best table saw push sticks and our best saw guard guide.
Common Mistakes (and How to Fix Them)
❌ Leaving the splitter in a drawer
A device that is not fitted gives no protection.
✅ Fix: choose a quick-change system and make “splitter on” your default for every rip.
❌ Using the wrong kerf size
A splitter that is too thick binds; one that is too thin lets the board steer.
✅ Fix: match full-kerf or thin-kerf splitters to your blade, and keep separate inserts.
❌ Misaligned splitter
A splitter out of line pushes the board sideways into the blade.
✅ Fix: check alignment with a straightedge and adjust before cutting.
❌ Forgetting to refit it after a groove
The next rip happens without protection.
✅ Fix: refit the splitter immediately after any non-through cut.
❌ Relying on the splitter alone
A splitter reduces kickback but does not replace good technique.
✅ Fix: keep the fence parallel, use push sticks and stand out of the line of fire.
❌ Improvised riving knives
Home-made knives of the wrong thickness or poorly mounted can cause binding.
✅ Fix: use a riving knife made for your saw model, or a proven insert splitter.
Pro Tips
- 💡 Align the fence first. A fence that toes in toward the back of the blade pinches the wood and fights the splitter. See our guide on aligning a table saw.
- 💡 Stand to the side of the blade, never directly behind it, so you are out of the path if kickback happens.
- 💡 Watch for warped or twisted boards. Joint one face and edge flat before ripping, or rip with extra care.
- 💡 Label your inserts. Mark which insert has a full-kerf or thin-kerf splitter, and which is splitter-free.
- 💡 Keep the blade sharp. Dull blades need more force, which raises the risk of kickback.
- 💡 Use the blade guard whenever the cut allows. A splitter and guard together give the best protection.
Real-Life Examples
These scenarios reflect situations woodworkers commonly describe online. They are illustrative, not specific people.
🪚 The old contractor saw upgrade
Someone inherits an older contractor saw with no riving knife and a missing guard. They add a zero-clearance insert with an insert-mounted splitter. Rips feel more controlled straight away, and the wood no longer pinches on stressed boards. The lesson: an older saw can be made much safer cheaply.
⚠️ “Just one groove”
A woodworker removes the splitter to cut a groove, then rips a board without refitting it. The board closes on the blade and kicks back, leaving a bruise but no worse. Now they keep the splitter insert right next to the saw and refit it every time. The lesson: always put it back.
🔧 The binding splitter
A new splitter keeps binding until the owner realizes they fitted a full-kerf splitter while using a thin-kerf blade. Switching to the matching thin-kerf version fixes it. The lesson: match the splitter to the blade.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does a splitter do on a table saw?
It keeps the cut open behind the blade and stops the board drifting into the rising rear teeth, which greatly reduces the risk of kickback.
Is a riving knife better than a splitter?
Generally yes. A riving knife moves with the blade and stays close to it at any height, and it can often stay on for non-through cuts. A splitter is an excellent option for older saws without a riving knife.
Can I add a riving knife to my old Craftsman table saw?
It depends on the model. Some older saws have aftermarket riving knife kits, but compatibility varies. An insert-mounted splitter is often the simplest safe upgrade.
Do I need a different splitter for thin-kerf blades?
Yes. A splitter must be slightly thinner than the kerf. Use a thin-kerf splitter with thin-kerf blades and a full-kerf splitter with full-kerf blades.
Should I remove the splitter for dado cuts?
Yes. A dado stack does not cut through the board, so splitters and riving knives must be removed. Refit them immediately afterward.
Does a splitter replace anti-kickback pawls?
No. They do different jobs. The splitter prevents pinching, while pawls grab the wood if it starts moving backward. Using both, plus a guard, gives the best protection.
Your Table Saw Splitter Checklist
- I know whether my saw has a riving knife or needs a splitter
- My splitter matches my blade’s kerf (full or thin)
- It is installed in line with the blade and checked with a straightedge
- The fence is parallel to the blade
- The splitter or riving knife is on for every through-cut
- I refit it immediately after any non-through cut
- Push sticks or a push block are within reach
- I stand to the side of the blade, not behind it
A splitter is a small part with a big job. It protects the back of the blade, where most kickback begins, and it costs far less than a single trip to the emergency room. Fit one to any saw that lacks a riving knife, keep it aligned, and make using it a habit. For more safety essentials, read our table saw safety gear checklist.
Finlay Connolly is a woodworking enthusiast and power tool specialist with over a decade of hands-on experience in the workshop. As the founder and lead writer at ProTableSawReviews.com, Finlay combines expert knowledge with real-world testing to help woodworkers, DIYers, and professionals choose the best tools for the job. With a sharp eye for detail and a passion for precision, Finlay is committed to providing trustworthy, practical advice backed by years of experience and research in the field. Whether you’re cutting dados or comparing fence systems, you can count on Finlay for honest, reliable reviews that make your next cut your best one.
